Why Choose a Ball Python for a Pet?
Ball pythons make terrific pets. They are relatively easy to care for and don’t require much space at all. They are typically gentle, calm creatures that are easily handled. They are not aggressive snakes by any means. Ball pythons will grow to 4-5 feet in length and average 7-8 pounds. They also have about a 30 year life span, so they are a long term commitment. If you acquire a healthy animal to begin with, then with proper care, it should remain healthy and problem free. Avoiding the urge to purchase from most pet stores will serve you well. Buying from a breeder is really the best route to getting a healthy animal with a known history. Another good reason to buy from a breeder is the cost. Typically, normal ball pythons purchased from pet stores will be priced at $60-$80. That’s about 3-4 times what a breeder will charge. As an added bonus, you’ll almost certainly get a willing source of excellent information about your new pet. That’s usually not the case when you go to the pet stores. Many times they are very friendly and more than willing to give advice, but unfortunately, in most cases it's bad advice from misinformed employees. The breeder wants to give you all the information and help you need to care for your pet. Remember, they want you to succeed.
Care and Requirements (Husbandry)
Aside from breeding, ball pythons should be kept in separate cages. Cohabiting doesn’t work well for these animals. What may look like cuddling is actually them competing for the best spot in the enclosure. Because ball pythons require a moderately high humidity, 50-60%, it’s important to choose a containment that can support that need. Low humidity will cause bad sheds and that is not good for your ball. Many people will choose a glass aquarium with locking screen lid so they can see their pet slither around, but this is not really the best choice. Remember that fish tanks are great for fish, but not so great for ball pythons. Not to say that it can’t be done. It just takes a quite a bit of effort to get it to the point where it is doing a good job of meeting your snakes requirements. As crazy as it seems, I believe that the best way to keep your ball python is in an appropriately sized plastic shoebox type container with a locking lid. With a few holes poked in the side, he’ll have plenty of air and an under tank heater with thermostat will safely provide the belly heat he needs. It’s also much cheaper than a fish tank and easy to upgrade to a larger box when needed. If you’re worried that you won’t see him crawling around, remember that ball pythons are nocturnal and they love to do nothing during the day. Some people jokingly call them pet rocks. A ball that roams around too much is usually a stressed out ball. They‘re happiest in small, dark spaces. I’ve found in my own experience that if I have a BP that has refused to eat for me a couple times, that moving them to a much smaller tub will get them eagerly eating again. They just feel more secure in small areas.
A few things you’ll need to get set up correctly is a reptile heating mat (under tank heater or heat tape), a thermostat for the heating mat. A couple hide boxes, one for the cold side
(80°+/-) and one for the hot side(92°+/-), a water dish and an infrared temperature gun. All of these things are relatively inexpensive and easy to find. Substrate/bedding can be as simple as newspaper or paper towels or you can buy aspen, cypress, or coconut husk based bedding. It is accepted practice to avoid pine and cedar materials as it may be harmful or fatal to your snake. If you’re having low humidity problems, which is common in the winter months, a bedding that hold moisture can help tremendously. Coconut based bedding does a good job with this. Placing the water bowl over the part of the belly heat area of the enclosure can help also. No heat lamps or UV lights are needed or recommended for ball pythons. Heat rocks are also a big no no. They can lead to horrible belly burns on your snake. And please above all, never put any kind of adhesive tape in his cage. Your snake can and will find a way to get it stuck to him and in turn, can tear his skin right off.
Feeding
Ball pythons will eat rats, mice, African soft furs, gerbils etc. Most owners will choose rats because they come in all sizes to suit the size of the snake they’re feeding. Most ball pythons will eat frozen thawed rodents of the appropriate size with no problem. A rodent that is about as big around as the thickest part of the snake’s body is a good gauge of food size. They should typically eat about once a week. They also should be fed in their cage. That’s where they’re most comfortable. Contrary to what you may have heard, feeding them in their cage does not cause cage aggression. This is a myth and it is the only way I will feed my snakes. Switching them to another place to eat can stress them out. Not to mention you would have to handle them right after they ate to put them back into their cage. All of this can lead to eating problems. And ball pythons already have a reputation for going off feed once in a while as it is. Sometimes for several months. Although this isn’t the rule, it is certainly a possibility, but most of the time this isn’t a problem unless they start to look unhealthy. They will eventually decide to eat again but it may mean waiting it out or changing a few things. The first thing to do is double check your husbandry. Are the temps right? Is the humidity correct? Too much daily traffic around the enclosure can stress out the snake which can lead to feeding issues as well. After checking those things you can try changing the enclosure size, usually smaller, or adding more hides. That can help jump start the feeding response as can changing the food item offered, including live feeders. Changing the kind food would be the last resort because they won’t always go back to rats. No one wants to feed their large adult ball several mice a week. It’s expensive and inconvenient. And lastly, always allow at least 24 hours after feeding before handling your snake. Any sooner may cause stress and lead to regurgitation.
If you are nearby, I can supply live or frozen rats if you need them. I do not ship frozen feeders.
I have tried to touch on some of the basics of ball python ownership. There is so much information on the internet that I encourage you to continue your research and compare notes. Feel free to contact me if you have questions or concerns. I am more than happy to discuss whatever topic you’re interested in.
Patuxent Pythons
Copyright © 2024 Patuxent Pythons- All Rights Reserved.
We use cookies to analyze website traffic and optimize your website experience. By accepting our use of cookies, your data will be aggregated with all other user data.